Hydroponics: Concepts and Methods

Hydroponics is one of the many methods of soilless agriculture through which plants are grown using mineral nutrient solutions in water, without soil. Many commodity crops like tomatoes, onions, lettuce and cabbage have been successfully cultivated through hydroponics, and their produce well-accepted in many markets. The theory behind the method is that the soil is only a mineral nutrient reservoir and hence, it is not very essential to plant growth. The mineral nutrient can be introduced into a plant’s water supply artificially which is then readily absorbed by the plant’s root. The concept of hydroponics is significant in today’s world as it contributes to the growing concern for steadier food supply, as well as the reduction of suitable arable land for agriculture.

 

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How to Solarize Soil

 

One of the natural methods of controlling soilborne diseases, pathogens and weeds in gardens is soil solarization. This technique has been used by many farmers around the world because of its adaptability to any location and soil condition. It has been proven effective and it lessens farmers’ and growers’ reliance on synthetic pesticides and herbicides. (See Soil Solarization: Concept and Benefits)

Soil solarization is done by capturing and trapping the sun’s heat with the use of a tarp or covering. After some time, soil temperature can rise as high as 125 degrees Fahrenheit (52 deg. Celsius) at the top 6 inches (15 cm), and even to 100 deg. Fahrenheit at a depth of 18 inches. Over several weeks, that is hot enough to kill a wide range of soil inhabiting pests such as wilt and root rot fungi, root knot nematodes and noxious weed seed. It takes about four to six weeks of sunny weather to sterilize the soil. The method can be done on any size of plot, as long as the plastic covering is enough to wrap the whole plot.

For a more detailed procedure of the process, here are the quick and easy steps:

1. Prepare the soil. After tilling the land, thoroughly clean the plot from any unwanted materials and debris. Pull out the weeds or residues from previous cropping. Rake the surface smooth. A fine soil surface will allow the plastic covering to be placed in close contact with the soil Remove stones and large dirt clods which may create air pockets inside the covering and eventually cause uneven heating.

2. Water the plot. The soil should be moistened if dry, but not saturated. You can leave the sprinkler on for several hours or overnight to soak the soil. Wet soil conducts heat better that dry soil. Also, there will be 100% humidity inside the covering which acts with heat to eliminate pathogens and weeds.

3. Dig a trench all around the bed or plot 6-8 inches deep.

4. Lay a clear plastic covering, around 3-6 mm thick deep, over the plot. See to it that the sheet overlaps the trench on all sides. Fill in the trench (you may even place heavy objects on the edges) to weigh down the plastic while pulling it as tight as possible.

Many people always recommend using clear plastic because the idea is that clear plastic produces higher temperatures faster because the sunlight passes through the clear plastic to heat the soil. However, for cooler climate or cooler time of the year, you may use black plastic because it absorbs the heat, making it even hotter.

 

Polyethylene plastic 1 mil thick is the most efficient and economical for soil heating. However, it is easier to rip or puncture and is less able to withstand high winds than thicker plastic. Users in windy areas may prefer to use plastic 1 1/2 to 2 mils thick. If holes or tears occur in the plastic, they should be patched with clear patching tape or duct tape. Thick transparent plastic (4 to 6 mils) reflects more solar energy than does thinner plastic (1 to 2 mils) and results in slightly lower temperatures.

5. Relax, wait, and see. You are done now with setting up and what needs to be done is nothing but wait for the effect. A few weeks of sunshine can effectively improve your soil conditions. In areas where weather conditions are generally cooler or where there are more cloudy days, or when you do not feel like waiting for a long time, you can speed up the process by adding another layer of covering. See to it that the second sheet of plastic cover is raised over ground level so that there is airspace between the two sheets. The airspace serves a buffer zone during cloudy or cooler days. The combination can also raise the soil temperature an additional 6 deg. Fahrenheit.

Source:

Wikipedia.com

Gardenguides.com

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Soil Solarization: Concept and Benefits

Pests and soilborne diseases always cause severe damage to horticultural and field crops. With their presence, the desired output is greatly reduced, posing a heavy economic loss to farmers and growers. Hence, they must be eradicated. Several methods have been tried and practiced to address this issue. There are chemical applications like soil-applied pesticides that control weeds, nematodes, fungi, bacteria and soilborne diseases. However, the use of chemical pest controls are viewed undesirable because of their unfavorable effects on both humans and animals, the toxic residues they generate, and the high cost and complexity of their treatment. To avoid negative consequences, a number of nonchemical methods for controlling diseases and pests have been studied and applied. One such method is soil solarization. (image source)

Soil solarization is a pest and disease control technique that uses the radiant heat from the sun to eliminate many soilborne pathogens. In this process, the soil is mulched and covered with a tarp, usually a transparent polyethylene cover, which traps solar energy. It is much the same as greenhouse. Since heat is captured and used, this method causes some physical, chemical, and biological changes in the soil in the most natural way. These changes result to control or suppression of pathogens and soilborne diseases.

This technique works best in areas with lots of sun and high temperature. However, recent modifications have proven that it can also work in cooler areas and for cooler times of the year. 

Here are the noted benefits of soil solarization:

Disease Control.  Soil solarization does not totally eradicate pathogens and diseases on the soil. However, studies have shown that pathogens would reinfest solarized soil at slower rates than nontreated soil.

Weed Control. Several weed species can be controlled by soil solarization since many of them are sensitive to soil moisture and high radiation. This aspect is often evident after a year of treatment. Some of the weeds that can be partially controlled by soil solarization include sweet clover (Melilotus alba), yellow nutsedge (Cyperus esculentus), purple nutsedge (C. rotundus), purslane (Portulaca oleracea), and crabgrass (Digitaria sanguinalis).

Nematode control. Partly, soil solarization can reduce nematode populations. Nematodes are those families of parasitic worms that include the hookworm and pinworm, and normally found in soil. Since nematodes are generally heat-tolerant, solarization is more effective and economically feasible for shallow-rooted crops and gardens.

Increased plant growth response.  Studies have shown that plants grown in solarized soil grows faster and produce yield superior in both quantity and quality. This can be attributed to three reasons. First, major pathogens and pests are controlled which obviously favor better growth of plants. Second, some soluble nutrients like nitrogen (NO3-, NH4+), calcium (Ca++), and magnesium (Mg++) may be increased and made more available to plants in solarized soil. Lastly, some beneficial microorganisms like mycorrhizal fungi, actinomycetes, and good bacteria survive the solarization process and consequently recolonize the soil. In turn, this helps biological control of pathogens and pests, as well as to stimulate plant growth.

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Culinary Uses of Garlic

Garlic is one of the most popular items in the kitchen. It is a spice which everyone, regardless of culture and race, is using. It is a species that belong to the onion genus, and its close relatives are onion, shallot, leek, and chive. Garlic is native to central Asia, and has long been a staple and frequent seasoning in the Mediterranean region, Asia, Africa, and Europe.

Garlic has various uses, especially in the field of culinary. Many parts of the plant can be used in cooking.

The bulb of the plant is its most commonly used part. Garlic bulbs are usually divided into several numerous fleshy sections called as cloves. Garlic cloves are either consumed cooked or raw, and have considerable medicinal purposes. They have a pungent and spicy flavor which gradually sweetens with cooking.

The other parts of the garlic plant are also edible, just like the leaves and flowers on the head. They have milder flavor than the bulbs, and are most often consumed while young and tender. The immature flower stalks of some types are sometimes marketed for uses similar to asparagus in stir-fries.  The inedible or rarely eaten parts of the garlic plant include the “skin” and root cluster. The “skin” or the papery protective layer that covers the cloves are generally removed before using in raw or cooked form, though in Korea immature whole heads are sometimes prepared with the tender skins intact.

Garlic is an important component of many dishes in Asia, South Asia, Southeast Asia, the Middle East, northern Africa, southern Europe, and parts of South and Central America. Here are some of the known preparations of garlic:

• The flavor varies in intensity and aroma with the different cooking methods. It is often cooked with onion, tomato, or ginger.
• Garlic cloves are also roasted. The top of the bulb is cut; the cloves are then coated with olive oil or other oil-based seasoning, and then roasted in oven.

  

 

• In Korea, heads of garlic are fermented at high temperature. The fermented garlic, called black garlic, is sweet and syrupy. It is now being sold in the United States, United Kingdom and Australia.
• Garlic is also applied to breads to create a variety of classic dishes, such as garlic bread, garlic toast, brochette, crusting, and canapé.
• Oils can be flavored with garlic cloves, and are used to season various vegetables, meats, breads, and pasta.
• In some cuisines, the young bulbs are pickled for three to six weeks in a mixture of sugar, salt, and spices.
• In Eastern Europe, the shoots are pickled and eaten as an appetizer.
• Mixing garlic with egg yolks and olive oil produces aioli. Garlic, oil, and a chunky base produce skordalia. Blending garlic, almond, oil, and soaked bread produces ajoblanco.
• Garlic powder has a different taste from fresh garlic. If used as a substitute for fresh garlic, 1/8 teaspoon of garlic powder is equivalent to one clove of garlic.

Agri-Tech: Coco Bonsai

Who says we need a large backyard to grow coconuts? Who says we can only plant them in our yards? In today’s advancement in agriculture, it is no wonder that coconuts can be grown inside our house…

A coconut tree normally reaches a height of up to 30 meters, with leaves spanning 4-6 meters long. It is grown throughout the tropics because of the diversity of its use. As they say, the coconut palm is the “tree of life” since all the parts of the tree is proven to be useful, from its roots up to its leaves and flowers and nuts. Due to its versatility, it is just appropriate that households have access to this plant. And thus, coconuts are now cultivated as bonsai.

Originating from Indonesia, coco bonsai is so small that it is planted on a pot and can be displayed atop the table.  It can be used as interior and exterior decoration. Coco bonsai is somehow sensitive to certain environmental conditions. It needs good light and an even warm temperature (70^OF plus), or the leaves shall fall one by one. It must be positioned further in the room and not next to a window, and if possible, a sunlamp be installed near it. The plant grows well on a well-drained sandy soil rich in lime and potash. It requires small water consumption and a little bit of fertilizer such as NPK (Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Potassium). Regularly, the leaves of the coco bonsai must be dusted gently to avoid the unsightly accumulation of dust.

The above mentioned coco bonsai also has a taller “sister”, up to 1.5 meters. It is planted on the ground. This type of coco bonsai is genetically engineered to be dwarf but still bear fruit. Size of the fruit ranges from 3 inches to 10 inches in diameter.

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Ten Deadly Mushroom Beauties

Nowadays, many species of mushrooms are already sold in the market as food. However, few remain to be highly toxic. Most usually, the more toxic they are, the greater their beauty…

 

1. Fly Agaric: 

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This mushroom is also known as Amanita muscaria, fly Amanita, or Soma. It is native throughout the areas of the Northern Hemisphere. The most common cap color is red but some subspecies have brown, yellow-orange, and pinkish caps. The mushroom is classified as poisonous, though there are no more significant deaths in the recent years due to modern medical treatment. In fact, some countries already consume this as food after good parboiling in water. The mushroom reminds me of strawberry lollipops, but it is certainly not something one can lick right away.

2. Destroying Angel Mushroom:

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This name refers to numerous, closely related species of deadly all-white Amanita mushrooms. Destroying angels have white stalk and caps that may be yellowish, pinkish, or tan at the center. As the name implies, they are among the most toxic known mushrooms. They account for majority of deaths from mushroom consumption. Symptoms of poisoning include vomiting, cramps, delirium, convulsions, and diarrhea; and these may appear only after 5 to 24 hours when the toxin is already absorbed by the body and the damage, like destruction of liver and kidney tissues, is done.

3. Jack-o’-Lantern Mushroom:

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Known scientifically as Omphalotus olearius, this mushroom is often mistaken as chanterelle (an edible fungus) because it possesses the same orange to yellow gills and cap. Accordingly, it looks and smells appealing that many individuals have repeated poisoning. The mushroom may not be very lethal but consuming this causes severe cramps, vomiting, and diarrhea.

4. Clustered Woodlover:

 

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Also known as sulfur tuft, it has a scientific name of Hypholoma fasciculare. It is a small woodland mushroom and grows abundantly in large clumps on rotting trunks, stumps, and dead roots of trees. Poisoning of this mushroom causes diarrhea, nausea, vomiting, proteinuria and collapse. To large extent, it can lead to paralysis and impaired visions.

5. The Sickener:

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This mushroom has predominantly red-color caps and white gills and stalk. Its scientific name is Russula emetica. As expected from its name, this mushroom is toxic. Poisoning is mainly gastrointestinal in nature such as diarrhea, vomiting and abdominal cramps. It is said to have a bitter or peppery taste which disappears when cooked, though eating it is not recommended.

6. Yellow House Plant Mushroom:

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It has the scientific name Leucocoprinus birnbaumii, and also called as Lepiota lutea, flower-pot parasol, and plantpot dapperling. As the name suggests, it typically grows in greenhouses or with potted plants. This mushroom is quite poisonous and can cause significant stomach problems.

7. Ivory Funnel:

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Otherwise known as Clitocybe dealbata, this mushroom is a small white funnel-shaped toadstool prolifically found in Europe and North America. The diameter of its cap is 2-4 cm, and the stipe or stalk is 2-3.5 cm tall. Within 15 – 30 minutes of ingestion, victim experiences increased salivation, sweating, and tearflow. Hence, the mushroom is also called as sweating mushroom. Moreover, symptoms may include abdominal pain, severe nausea, diarrhea, blurred vision, and labored breathing. Sever cases lead to cardiac or respiratory failure.

8. Satan’s Mushroom:

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It wouldn’t be surprising if the scientific name of this mushroom is Boletus satanas. Also called as Devil’s bolete, it has a whitish, yellow, or pale ochre cap with an inrolled margin, and a large, fat stalk. It is lethal, both when eaten raw or cooked. Poisoning causes nausea and violent vomiting. Well, the mushroom may be said to be a cuddly but deadly beauty.

9. False Parasol:

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This is a very widespread mushroom that comes also with the name green-spored parasol or Chlorophyllum molybdites. It is the most common consumed poisonous mushroom in North America. Symptoms of ingestion include vomiting, diarrhea and colic, often severe, which occurs 1-3 hours after consumption. This is another white beauty to reckon with!

10. Conocybe tenera.

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This mushroom has a conic to convex cap which is smooth and colored cinnamon brown. It is only 3 to 9 cm long. It is also widely distributed across the planet. Its edibility is unknown, so it remains to be likely poisonous.

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